Silk Manufacturing: Mandulo Nakule Mihla

Iimbambano malunga inkqubo yemveliso isilika sele liqalile nini, ezisekho nanamhlanje. Noko ke, ezafunyanwa ngabembi bezinto zakudala China kuye, enyanisweni, kunokubeka uphele lo mba - amaqhekeza zomzimba, wafumanisa ngo-1958 kwiPhondo Shandong, kwimpuma China, endala impahla isetyenziswayo isilika yehlabathi. Ngoku isilika ubizwa ngokuba "nguKumkani kwithishyu" waza wenza kuyo ezahlukeneyo eziphilayo, kwaye kakhulu ezixabisekileyo yaye kubize - yimpahla esuka kwindalo, inxulumene ngokusondeleyo kwimbali nenkcubeko uBukhosi Iinkwenkwezi.

Legend umfazi lo mlawuli

imveliso Okwenziwa e China uneminyaka engaphezu kwe-6000. Imbali yale ilaphu ezimangalisayo wambu amavo. Ngokutsho komnye wabo, umfazi Yellow uMlawuli Huang Di waye ehleli phantsi komthi yemibhaka nokusela tea xa indebe yakhe phantsi ibhola emhlophe - Cocoon. Eli bhinqa wayethanda ukuba ukucinga nesenzeko ezahlukeneyo yaye wabona ibhola ngemisonto emhlophe anoboya ubonakala robust. Bangumoya intambo nasesithupheni, umfazi mlawuli waqonda ukuba imicu zingasetyenziswa ukwenza i laphu. Njengoko waqalisa ukukhula imiyalelo silkworms ngokukodwa.

Kamva, China yaqanjwa zinto zezakudala, emva koko yemveliso isilika e-China yamandulo kwi Ixesha Shang Dynasty kwinkulungwane XVI BC. e. Kokuba ifike nqanaba liphezulu.

Phantsi intlungu yokufa: imfihlelo zokukhokhela nabaluki Chinese

iinkosi Chinese yobuciko wakhe kugcinwa entsithelweni ngenxa ngaphezu kwewaka leminyaka. Ihlebo kwimveliso isilika kwihlabathi lamandulo iye yahlala ngqongqo kakhulu - kwimbali yoluntu, kwaba enye yezona ekhuselweyo "iimfihlelo ishishini." Le ukuvalwa ukuthunyelwa silkworm kombungu, cocoons, imbewu yemibhaka wenza phantsi isigwebo sokufa.

Nangona ngaloo mihla sinelungelo ukunxiba isilika imiwundu abalawuli kuphela kwaye ukwazi inkcubeko sericulture kunye filature zanwenwa kuso China, kunye nemichako yathengwa abameli abakumgangatho ophakathi kunye namahlwempu.

Ilaphu Fine nezambatho babesaziwa Obusemagqabini ubunjani kunye nomsebenzi omhle. Kodwa akukho ukuvimbela, akukho sohlwayo akakwazanga ukuthintela kwangaphambili isilika kwamanye amazwe.

The Great Silk Road

iimveliso Okwenziwa zibe yinxalenye ebalulekileyo kurhwebo lwamazwe angaphandle uBukhosi Chinese. ilaphu onexabiso waziswa eYurophu Silk Road. Kwezimpahla ezintabeni kunye iintlango, iinkamela, iimeyile, yaye akukho sikhubekiso ayikwazanga ukuyeka imiqodi kakhulu, zithwele - impahla exabisekileyo wathembisa ukuba inzuzo enkulu.

The Great Eyisilika Road wacanda Asia naseYurophu, edibanisa ubomi zokuphila kwabantu ezahlukeneyo. Waqala kwiYellow River Valley, acandacanda inxalenye yasentshona Great Wall of China ukuya Issyk-Kul Lake. Okulandelayo, iifolokhwe umendo kwi angasentla nangasezantsi: indlela ngasezantsi kwakhokelela Ferghana, Samarkand, Iraq, e-Iran, Syria kunye uLwandle lweMeditera, kwaye northern athululela kumacandelo amabini - omnye waya Central Asia, kwaye yesibini esezantsi ye Syr Darya River kwi- West Kazakhstan kunye, ezigudle kumntla-mpuma elwandle Black ukuya eYurophu. Ubude lilonke Enkulu Silk Road waba ngaphezu 7000 km.

Kuba iziveliso isilika wabonakala e Korea, ngoko e-Japan, India, yaye, ekugqibeleni, kumazwe aseYurophu kwaye uBukhosi baseRoma. Kangangeenkulungwane, i Silk Road yaba ingcamango yokwenene yale kurhwebo lwehlabathi amanyathelo. iindlela zorhwebo Silk Road wadala amawaka eminyaka. "Enye ibhanti, indlela enye" - umqondo mihla kunye mzuzu: kwinkulungwane xxi evuselela nkqubo eTshayina nasekuvuseleleni Silk Road kunye notyalo-mali neendlela,-high speed kaloliwe kunye namazibuko, eqinisekisa ukusebenza kwe neziseko imveliso kummandla ngokubanzi yengingqi.

On the Silk Road inokufumaneka inkulu isilika imyuziyam ehlabathini e Hangzhou. Iqulethe inani elikhulu iimveliso ezizodwa namaqhekeza yamandulo amakhosi webs kunye iminyaka eyahlukeneyo.

Features imveliso isilika

Nangona yemveliso isilika e China yamandulo lahlelwa ngqo, ngokutsho legend, lendela baseRoma uthubelezise cocoons silkworm kwi ikomkhulu baseByzantium uBukhosi, eConstantinople. ukususela Kuye ndibano Imperial Palace cocoonery (igumbi ukuzalisa mibungu le silkworm) kunye winders lusekiwe. Products baba ixabiso namnandi - kwaye oku kwakungenxa yobumbaxa kunye nenkqubo multi-Inqanaba yokuvelisa zixhobo kwaye ke ngoko eli laphu ogqityiweyo.

Ukufuya silkworms kunye nemveliso isilika kufuna eninzi ingqalelo, ngomsebenzi onzima esweni ngenyameko.

Eyona engundoqo izigaba kwimveliso

Ukuba uchaza imveliso isilika ezimfutshane, ziza kuba le nkqubo ilandelayo. silkworm Butterfly ngexesha lokudla kwabo, nto leyo ithatha iintsuku ezi-4 ukuya ku-6, ukubeka amaqanda malunga 500. Ezidla amagqabi yemibhaka babezalusa, baye babe nomdla omkhulu, ubunzima lwabo kwandisa ngokukhawuleza. Phambili ezinqunquthayo ezidla zikungqinge ne into leyo yenziweyo kwamadlala zabo ezizodwa. Kuqala ke silky ezimbini ezingcakacileyo, ukuqinisa emoyeni. Kungekudala emhlabeni imizila kwakhiwa network nemisontwana ashinyeneyo. Ekubiyeni kukwisakhelo Cocoon, ezinqunquthayo eshenxela ibe esizikithini, ngokuthe ngcembe kwenza Cocoon - emhlophe ibhola anoboya.

Emva kweentsuku 8-9, lo imibungu kudla kunye cocoons nkxu emanzini ashushu ukuze afumane mngxilo. ubude babo babe ukusuka iimitha ezingama-400 ukuya ku-1000 kunye Ebubanzini microns 10-12. Imisonto ezijijekileyo eziliqela silkworm - iluhlaza. Okulandelayo, noboya ngenxa iguqulelwa ngelaphu. Ukuntsonkotha zokufumana zomzimba ibaluleke: benxibe obhinqileyo kuthatha malunga 630 cocoons.

Uphuhliso oluqhubekayo kobuchwepheshe Chinese

Vulu kubangele kwafuneka ukuba isilonda a spool. Shelkokrutilnye kuqala owavela ivili nkqu ngexesha Ming Dynasty. Kwinkulungwane XVIII e Jiangsu iinkosi yavelisa oomatshini, apho amavili ziqhutywa phantsi, nokunyusa imveliso.

Emva koko ke kamatshini eyimveliso multi-elimbala ngelaphu krupnouzornoy sadalwa, nto leyo ukuphuhliswa ngakumbi zobugcisa. ukuloba silk chinese yaba kakhulu abazinikeleyo yaseYurophu ngakumbi - umatshini wokuqala, amaribhili isilika tkavshy, wavela Germany kuphela kwinkulungwane XVI. Imfuneko amalaphu isilika likhulile zombini ngaphakathi China kunye nehlabathi jikelele. Qhubeka ukuphucula koomatshini imveliso isilika - imbali yale laphu ihlobene lunempumelelo zobunjineli textile.

Filature nokuluka: Mandulo Nakule Mihla

Ngethuba mveliso kwinkulungwane XIX kwakukho ukuhla kwishishini isilika yaseYurophu. I 'ubukhosi isilika "yesibini emva China waba Japan. silk cheap Japanese, ingakumbi ngenxa yokuvulwa Suez Canal, wayengomnye yezinto ezininzi ukunciphisa iindleko zizonke kulo. Ukongeza, ukuvela imicu zokwenziwa ufikile ukongamela ekwenziweni iimveliso ezifana iikawusi kunye Sib.

iimfazwe ezimbini zehlabathi baphazamise unikezelo kwemithombo yendalo Japan kunye noshishino isilika yaseYurophu apho ngxi. Kodwa ekuqaleni-imi- 50 of XX kwinkulungwane eJapan, imveliso isilika yaphila, ukuphuculwa umgangatho into eluhlaza. Japan, kunye China wahlala omnye nabavelisi kubukho bukaThixo isilika ekrwada, kwaye ifana kakhulu kumazwe angaphandle kuphela ongundoqo 1970.

China kuxhaphaka kwewebhu indawo yakhe njengenkokheli lehlabathi ukuvelisa isilika, kunye kumazwe vulu ekrwada, ebonakalalisa ukuba imbali isilika ilandela imigaqo zakhe boomerang yayo. Namhlanje uvelisa malunga 125 kweetoni eziliwaka isilika ehlabathini. Phantse esithathwini-ezimbini zemveliso unikelwa eTshayina. Nabanye abavelisi ezinkulu - India, eJapan, Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Uzbekistan naseBrazil. I-United States nguye umngenisi inkulu iimveliso isilika.

Iimpawu ilaphu zendalo

Amanqaku ezenziwe isilika zendalo kufuneka ecwebezelayo kwaye soft, kunye nombala - efanayo. indawo Best ukuthenga isilika e-China - e Suzhou, Hangzhou kunye Shanghai ehlabathini lonke izama noosomashishini amalungiselelo ukhenketho isilika kweli lizwe.

Ukuthenga iimveliso ezenziwe isilika zendalo, kufanele kuqwalaselwe:

• iimveliso isilika ifuna yokuhlamba izandla;
• amabala kwi iimveliso isilika kufuneka ngokukhawuleza libunile emanzini abandayo kunye isepha wobulali;
• emva kokuhlamba kufuneka ngamanzi olunzulu kunye neemveliso omisa nokuthantamisa;
• impahla intsimbi eyenziwe isilika kufuneka kube kwiqondo ephantsi (eliphawulwe ngokukodwa kwi-ayini);
• iimveliso eling'awukazi okanye ushicilelo umbala kubhetele ukuba anike abacoci owomileyo;
• Gcina imveliso kwimeko engcono (hayi zeplastiki) kunye kude elangeni ngqo.

Ukuthobela la macebiso ezilula kuya kunceda ngokusisigxina ukulondoloza izinto ngubo eliqaqambileyo ezintle izinto ezinikelwe ngemvelo.

Rayon: nezici nomahluko

Ekupheleni kwenkulungwane XIX, yokuqala ukuvela isilika ngumntu, umenzi wayo liye lalungiswa ukusuka ifayibha kwincindi. . Eli laphu kuthiwa viscose.

Iintlobo iisoyi kunye zokwenziwa of amalaphu isilika babe ukukhazimla ekhethekileyo, ukuba uhambe kakuhle kwaye ixesha elide. Indlela yokwahlukanisa bemvelo evela izihlunu ngumntu? Kaninzi imarike ungathenga njengentsomi ngexabiso eliphezulu.

Nazi ezinye iingcebiso ngezinto ungajonga khona xa ukhetha laphu:

• izinto zendalo soft ukuya ngaphandle kwebala kwaye lifudumele, ngokungafaniyo ngumntu, ezipholileyo kunye ngaphantsi soft;
• Ilaphu zendalo kancinane rumpled, Ndayishwabanisa ngumntu onamandla;
• inyama yendalo ngobunono kukhanye kunye shimmer lokwenziwa - kufuneka ukukhazimla elibukhali;
• ekupheleni nasemiqhokrweni yeengxondorha of filament ngumntu njenge ibrashi ukuba Lutho imicu, kwaye bendalo - esiqhumeni mini-imicu ngamnye;
• manzi olulingana rayon waphula ngokulula ngaphezu owomileyo;
• indlela yokutshisa filament ayikwazi sisebenzise, kodwa ke linokuthenjwa: ngentambo Natural into sintered ube eyi- kwintsunguzi abatheni namavumba iinwele nokutsha ngumntu phantsi uvutha kuse ekupheleni, ukwenza ivumba ezenziwe avuthayo;
• web ezingezizo akayeki, ngokungafaniyo zendalo;
• rayon phantse ukungcumbeka elangeni, kwaye izicwili zendalo ekuhambeni kwexesha, wolahlekelwa umbala kunye iphuphe.

Okwenziwa kungenziwa ngokuba imveliso elikhethekileyo usandul 'ukufika evela kumaxesha amandulo, ngaphandle kokulahlekelwa ubuhle kunye nokufaneleka. izindlu Fashion ehlabathini lonke - Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino nabanye kudala ingqokelela esekelwe isilika zendalo, ubananzile ke iingcali ezintsonkothileyo ka ntiyiso ubuhle iinkalo ezintsha wobunjani eziphathekayo - isipho indalo emntwini-enkosini.