Umfaki-zithombe uRichard Avedon. I-Biography kunye neefoto zikaRichard Avedon

URichard Avedon ngumfaki-zithombe oye wancedisa ukuvela kweefoto njengendlela yobugcisa bwanamhlanje xa esebenza kunye nabasemagunyeni, iimpawu zefashoni kunye nabaseMerika abaqhelekileyo kwixesha elide elizeleyo. Isitala sakhe sisifaniselo kunye nomzekelo. Nangona ama-portraits abemi bexesha lakhe egxininise kwixesha elilodwa kwaye abonise uhlangothi olusemthethweni lobuntu bomntu, ukukhanya kwakhe okubukhali kunye nemvelaphi emhlophe emgcinini kwakuchukumisa umbukeli kungekhona kuphela ebuhleni, kodwa nakubuntu kunye nemvakalelo enyanisekileyo yamanqaku. Omnye wabantu abadumileyo beefoto zangekhulu lama-20 - kwakunguRichard Avedon.

I-Biography ye-master: ubuntwaneni

Le nkwenkwe yazalwa ngoMeyi 15, 1923 kwintsapho yamaYuda, eNew York. Unina wayevela kwiintsapho ezibandakanya ukuveliswa kweengubo, kwaye uyise wayenevenkile yokugqoka. Ngoko ke, ubomi bukaRichard kusukela ebuntwaneni sele budibene nehlabathi lefashoni kunye nobuhle. Le nkwenkwe yayithanda ukuthwebula iingubo kwisitoreba sikayise kwaye yaze yajoyina iqela labathandi bezithombe abaneminyaka eyi-12. Kwangexesha elide waphefumulelwa ubuhle bodadewabo omncinci uLouise. Ngelishwa, wayegula ngenxa yengqondo kwaye akazange aphile ixesha elide, ngoko uRichard waba nesimo sengqondo esichukumisayo sokuba nobuhle, esithethayo ngokwaso, kodwa siza kutshabalalisa.

Ulutsha kunye nokuqala komsebenzi

Emva kwesikolo, u-Avedon wangena e- Columbia University, apho wafunda khona ifilosofi kunye neengqungquthela. Nangona kunjalo, le nsizwa yayeka ukuqeqeshwa kwayo kwinkonzo ngexesha le-1942-1944. Emva koko, wafunda ukufotowa kunyaka phantsi kolawulo lomlawuli we-Harper's Bazaar Alexei Brodovich. Ubuhlobo obuqinileyo buvela phakathi kootitshala kunye nomfundi, kwaye kungekudala uAvindon wamkelwa kubaqeshwa beli phephancwadi. Kwaphela iminyaka eyi-10 wathatha imifanekiso ye-gloss kwaye wazimisela njengomnye wabaselula abanamakhono. Kodwa udumo lwangaphambili lwaluse phambili.

Ngo-1944, u-Avedon watshata umzekelo kaDorcas Novell, emva kweminyaka emithandathu yomtshato bahlukana. Ngo-1951, waphinda wadibana noEvelyn Franklin. Babenendodana, uYohane, kodwa umanyano wabo waphela ngokuqhawula umtshato.

Ukuphumelela kweengcamango

Iifoto zikaDoviam van Cliff kunye neendlovu zaba ngumsebenzi wokuqala owaziwa kakhulu wenkosi. Imifanekiso yemodeli edumileyo kweso sihlandlo se-chic esuka kwiDior, kunye neendlovu zangempela kwi-eskri yezemidlalo zikhangeleka zingalindelekanga kwaye ngelo xesha zilingenangqondo.

Nazi ezinye izinto ezithandekayo uRichard Avedon ezenziwe ngelo xesha:

• Umfanekiso we-actress uMarilyn Monroe uhlukile kwihlobo lwawo. URichard ukhumbule ukuba kwenzeka njani ngohlobo lwangokuhlwa ka-1957 kwi-studio kunye neeyure eziliqela, udansa, udlala ngothando. Kodwa xa umsebenzi usuphelile, ngokukhawuleza umdlali wecala "waphuma" womfanekiso. I-photographer ikwazi ukuwuthatha lo mzuzu onqabileyo xa yena ngokwakhe, engakhuselekanga kwaye evulekile.

• Esinye isithombe esithakazelisayo, esenziwa ngexesha elifanayo, ngumfanekiso kaMarilyn Monroe kunye nomyeni wakhe, u-Arthur Miller ongumgcini wesikrini. Apha, umdlali we-actress uvuyisa ulonwabo olusondeleyo kumntu othandekayo oye wahlala kunye iminyaka emi-2. Iminyaka embalwa kamva bahlukana, kodwa umzuzwana ozele uvuyo kunye nethemba lahlala ngonaphakade nathi ngenxa yekhono lomfaki-zithombe.

• Lo mzobo ka-Elizabeth Taylor kunye neenwele ezinqabileyo zentloko zenziwa ngoJulayi 1, 1964. Ukulinganisela okugqibeleleyo, ukuphambana okubukhali - isitayela esincinci, esasidume uRichard Avedon, asikwazanga ukuba bhetele i-aesthetics yama-60. U-Elizabethe wayengaloo mdlali ophezulu ohlawulelwayo eHollywood, kwaye umfaki-zithombe wayengesabi ukumnika umfanekiso wesingeni kunye nobukhulu.

Utshintsho kwiinkomfa

Ngowe-1966, emva kweminyaka engama-2 yokudala, u-Avedon waqala ukusebenza ku-Harper's Bazaar, oyintloko. Napha, naye, wanikwa inkululeko epheleleyo yokudala. Intsebenziswano yabo yahlala de kube ngowama-1990 kwaye yaphawulwa yimisebenzi engekho mincili. Imifanekiso ekhuselekileyo, kwi-surreal yaqinisekisa ukuba uRichard Avedon ungumvelisi wenene ovuselela ubugcisa befashoni.

Sebenza ngaphandle kwemboni yobuhle

Kodwa inkosi eyaziwayo yayingaphelelanga kwimifanekiso yabasemagunyeni kunye neetayikethi zetekisi. Kwipotfoliyo yakhe kukho iipalraits zezopolitiko (uMongameli waseMelika uDD Eisenhower, uDkt. Martin Luther King nabanye), amajoni awalwa kwiVietnam yaseVietnam kunye namaxhoba ayo.

Kamva, ngo-1979, uRichard Avedon waqala umsebenzi kwiprojekthi enkulu ebizwa ngokuba yi-American West, eyadlula iminyaka engama-6. Esi sikhokelo sakhe, wathabatha iifoto zabantu baseMelika abaqhelekileyo: abavukuzi, abashayeli, abakwa-cowboys, abangaqeshwanga, abatsha-bonke ababenomdla. Le projekthi yadibana kunye nokugxekwa, wamangalelwa ngokutyhila izakhamuzi zase-US ngokukhanya okubi. Kodwa emva kwexesha, i-photobook yaba ngowona mthengi kunye neyona nto ibalulekileyo ebalulekileyo kwimifanekiso yokufotshwa kweefoto zephondo lama-20.

Iminyaka ezayo

Ngo-1992, u-Avedon waba ngumqeshwa weNew Yorker. Uvakalise umnqweno wokufotela ama-celebrities kuphela, kodwa nabo bantu baye bafezekisa into ebalulekileyo. Iprojekthi yakhe yokugqibela, eyayilungiselelwe ukuba ihlale ingagqitywanga, yayibizwa ngokuba yiNtando yesininzi kwaye yayingabonakaliswa ngabafundi bezopolitiko kuphela, kodwa kunye nabemi abaqhelekileyo, abathathe inxaxheba kwimisebenzi yezopolitiko nezentlalo.

URichard Awadon wafa ngo-Oktobha 1, 2004 ngexesha lesabelo senkonzo eSan Antonio (eTexas). Kuze kube ngowokugqibela, wahlala ethembekile kumsebenzi wezithombe.